Tutorial: Adding a recessed zipper to the small India hobo

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So you like being a hobo but wanna keep all your stuff in check right? Well I’ve got a solution for you! Add a recessed zipper to your small India Hobo.

First we’ll start with the main pattern piece, measure and mark the following lines. One at 0.75in and the next at 1.5inches down from the center.

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We will cut our new lining top pieces at the BOTTOM line and we will cut our new lining bottom pieces at the TOP line. Still with me? Ok 🙂 Next we need to cut some new pieces. We need to cut: 4 zipper panel pieces at 3×8 inches, 1 zipper tab at 3×4 inches and 1 bias zipper end at 2x6inches. Also we need at least a 8inch zipper. This is what we should have now.

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Take your zipper tab piece and fold the long edges in to meet at the center and press. Now fold the short edges to center and press. This creates our end tab. Clip off a little off the end of the zipper so when you stitch the tab on you are not going to hit the metal zipper stop.

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Insert zipper end into tab and topstitch around all four sides.

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Now mark and measure 2 inches from the zipper tab.

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Take all your zipper panel pieces and fold one end under by 0.5 inch and press. Sandwich the zipper between two of the zipper panel pieces right sides together, matching the two folded ends at the 2inch mark and stitch with a 0.25 inch seam.

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Flip so the panel pieces are wrong sides together and press seam you just made along the zipper. Topstitch along the zipper and the folded edge only, leaving one raw edge.

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Repeat with the remaining zipper panel pieces. This is what we have now.

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If you are using a longer zipper like I am, it needs to be shortened. Unzip your zipper so the zipper pull is between the zipper panel pieces. Stitch over the ends of the zipper right at the raw edge and clip off excess.

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Now take your zipper bias end, fold the long edges to meet in the center and then fold again so the folded edges meet. Insert the raw edges of the zipper panel into the fold of the bias end and top stitch.

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Now lay your lining bottom piece right side up and center your zipper panel on top right side up matching raw edges. There should be at least 5/8inch over hang of the bottom lining piece on each end.

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Now lay your top lining piece on top matching raw edges, stitch with a 0.5inch seam allowance.

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Press seam and topstitch if desired.

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Repeat with remaining lining pieces. This is what you end up with.

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Unzip your zipper and continue as the pattern states, just be careful not to catch the zipper panel in the seam allowance when attaching the side piece. And there you have it!

Happy sewing!
Erin

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